Post-Project Home
Care Tips

Daily cleaning: Use mild dish soap and water on a soft sponge or microfiber cloth. Wring out excess water (granite can be stained by standing water), and wipe the surface. Dry the countertop with a paper towel or a soft cloth to prevent water damage and streaking.

Counter polish: Use a reputable counter polish if you desire to increase the luster of the countertop.

Do not use: The items below can etch and dull the finish of your granite and wear away your sealer over time.

• Household acids including vinegar, lemon, lime, and citrus
• Ammonia or ammonia-based cleaners like Windex
• Bleach
• Steel wool
• Scrubby sponges

Solid wood countertops and butcher blocks require care specific to the type of finish applied. Both finishes are susceptible to damage from heat, so be sure to keep hot pans, pots, and other items off your wood countertop.

Food-safe mineral oil:

• Surfaces with this finish need to be re-oiled on a regular basis to protect the integrity of the countertop and to protect against water intrusion and staining. Typically, a reapplication of oil is required every 1-2 months or as soon as you notice the surface looking "dry". Simply flood the surface with mineral oil (available at drug stores), let it soak into the wood for a few minutes, and wipe dry. Be sure to safely dispose of oily rags, as they can self-combust.
• Spills should be wiped up immediately and liquids should not be allowed to stand on the surface for any extended time.
• Clean with warm, soapy water and wipe dry. A small amount of bleach or vinegar may be added to increase cleaning power.
• Any imperfections (stains, dents, etc.) can be sanded out and the top made to look new again. To do so, use 150 grit sandpaper on the affected area (being sure to sand in the direction of the grain) and re-oil to make it look like new.

Permanent finish:

• Permanent finish is a maintenance-free product that is water-proof and resistant to most household chemicals and foods that typically stain. Special care must be taken in the first month of use since the finish has not fully cured and will be more susceptible to damage.
• Use only soapy water to clean your countertop during this period. Clean with warm, soapy water and wipe dry.
• Household cleaners may be used after the first month.
• Do NOT chop on a countertop with this finish.

Quartz is designed to be very low-maintenance, durable, and not easily damaged. Keep yours looking new by following the care & maintenance instructions below:

Daily cleaning: As needed, simply wipe down your quartz surfaces with a damp cloth and dry completely to avoid water spots.

Stubborn spots: While quartz is non-porous and will not stain, sometimes stubborn spots can linger longer than you would like, especially with white and lighter colors. In order to get rid of these spots, use a soft cloth or sponge with a non-abrasive cleaner, such as Soft Scrub Liquid Gel. Apply cleaner to a cloth or sponge, not directly to your quartz surface, and wipe the surface. Repeat until you have removed the spot. Thoroughly rinse the surface and wipe dry to prevent water spots.

Grease spots: Wipe grease spots with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and wipe the spot. Repeat as necessary until desired results have been achieved. Always follow cleaning using mild soap or detergent as outlined above, then thoroughly rinse with cool water and dry with a soft cloth or paper towel.

Recommended cleaning products: While we are partial to our Pristine Clean, there are a variety of other products that are safe to use on your quartz countertops. Please avoid the products listed below, as not all products are created the same, and certain variations may include harmful chemicals or additives that could damage your quartz.

Do not use: illustrative, not comprehensive. If a cleaning agent, tool, or technique is not explicitly suggested in the cleaning methods section above, it is NOT recommended for your quartz counter.

• Abrasive cleaning pads such as Scotch Brite or the equivalent (any color).
• Magic Erasers or equivalent melamine sponges.
• Steel wool, SOS, Brillo, etc.
• High-acid cleaners such as tub & tile cleaner, mold remover, rust & hard water stain removers, toilet bowl cleaner, drain cleaner, etc.
• Powdered oxalic acid (e.g. Bar Keeper’s Friend)
• Alkaline cleaners such as bleach, ammonia, oven cleaner, etc.
• Oil soaps

Keep your gorgeous hardwood floors looking brand new.

• To defend against scratches and surface damage, give your floors a good dusting with a microfiber mop or cloth daily. Microfiber cleaning pads often use static electricity to trap dirt, particles, and other household allergens.
• Avoid using water and vinegar, soap-based cleaners, wax, or steam cleaners on hardwood floors. Vinegar and water can dull the floor’s finish over time, while soap and wax leave a residue. Steam cleaners put heat and excessive water on your floor, which can lead to cupping and long-term damage.

Porcelain is extremely stain resistant, but as a rule, all spills should be removed as quickly as possible, including staining agents, acids, alkalis, and colorants.

Always rinse thoroughly with water and dry immediately after cleaning.

Daily cleaning: Use a slightly damp microfiber cloth.

Regular cleaning: Use a neutral liquid detergent with a microfiber cloth or soft sponge.

Stubborn spots: Always test on a small, inconspicuous area first. Rinse thoroughly with water & dry immediately after cleaning. Use a slightly abrasive sponge and one of the recommended stain removers when necessary:

• Mild dish soap
• Mr. Clean
• Neutral floor cleaner
• 409
• Spic & Span
• Fantastic
• Windex
• Lysol
• Soft Scrub
• Mr. Clean Magic Eraser
• Bar Keepers Friend

Do not use steel wool – it will leave metal marks on the surface. While you should avoid cutting on the surface altogether, do not use ceramic knives on your porcelain countertops.

Clean with mild soap and water using a mop.

Wipe cabinets down with a cotton cloth and water mixed with a mild cleaner, such as dish soap.

Don't use abrasive clothes or chemicals on painted or wood cabinet surfaces.

Clean surfaces with a mild cleaner, like dish liquid. Always use a cotton cloth. After surfaces are dry, use a reputable stainless steel polish or brass polish.

• Stainless steel polish recommendation: Sheila Shine
• Brass recommendation: Never Dull

Do not use abrasive applicators such as Scotch Brite or microfiber towels.

• Use Rain-X® or Lemon Oil on the inside of the glass to help prevent water spotting between cleanings
• Mild abrasives may be used on the glass to remove lime or rust buildup
• Use a squeegee after each use to remove standing water

Increase your hot water heater's efficiency and longevity with regular maintenance. Sediment buildup shortens the life of your water heater and adds to your energy bill by reducing its efficiency, so flushing the tank and checking the anode rod should be performed annually.

• Drain the tank to flush out sediments that have settled to the bottom of the tank. This can be carried out by a professional company or by you if you're handy enough.

• Basement drains may start to smell, generally when a P-trap has dried out. This happens when they don't get much use and the water evaporates. Every few months, put water down every fixture drain in the basement.
• A small amount of mineral oil can be added to drains. Because it's not organic, it doesn't putrefy, and it's lighter than water, so any water will go through the oil. You don't need much of it, just enough to be above the p-trap. Don't overdo it because you don't want it in the septic tank, as it doesn't break down like organics.
• This should help solve sewage smells and other off odors in a house.

Carbon monoxide is impossible to detect without proper equipment, so a dependable CO detector is essential on every level of your home and near all bedrooms. Test your devices monthly and refresh batteries once a year at minimum. Most detectors have a defined lifespan (usually 7–10 years), so check the date on the back and plan for timely replacement. 

To keep the detector functioning properly, give it a gentle cleaning once or twice a year. Dust buildup can interfere with the sensor. A gentle pass with a vacuum’s soft-bristle brush or a short burst of compressed air keeps the vents clear. Wipe the exterior with a slightly damp cloth, but keep moisture away from the openings.

If the alarm ever sounds, don’t wait to evaluate it—get everyone to fresh air immediately, either outside or right next to an open window or door. Make sure every person in the home is accounted for. From a safe location, contact emergency services and stay put until they confirm the home is safe to enter again.

A well-maintained AC system keeps your home comfortable and energy-efficient through the hottest months. Swap filters every one to three months based on usage and indoor air needs. Outdoors, keep the condenser clear of leaves, weeds, and any other obstructions that might block airflow. A once-a-year professional tune-up is a wise investment. It helps the system run efficiently, reduces the likelihood of mid-season failures, and provides a heads-up on components that are starting to show wear. Early attention can significantly extend the system's lifespan and minimize unexpected issues.

• Annual checks should be performed to confirm it’s working. Depending on how much one runs, it could last 1–5 years.
• If your ejector pump has a battery backup system, test batteries every 3-6 months.

A smoke alarm only works when it is properly installed and regularly tested. Take care of your smoke alarms according to the manufacturer's instructions. Below are some general maintenance tips.

General alarm maintenance

Here are some general maintenance tips for different types of alarms:

• Alarm powered by a nine-volt battery or AA batteries:
  1. Test the alarm once a month.
  2. Clean the alarm monthly. Replace the batteries at least once every year.
  3. Replace the entire smoke alarm every 10 years.
• Alarm powered by a 10-year sealed (or “long-life”) battery:
  1. Test the alarm once a month.
  2. Clean the alarm monthly.
  3. Since you cannot replace a sealed battery, replace the entire alarm after you hear the end-of-life signal (5 chirps).
• Alarm hardwired into your home's electrical system:
  1. Test the alarm once a month.
  2. Clean the alarm monthly.
  3. Replace the backup battery at least once every year.
  4. Replace the entire alarm every 10 years.

False alarm

If a false alarm is activated, one of the following may be the reason:

• The sensing chamber may be dirty
• Humidity, steam, or other environmental factors
• An electrical condition may be causing power to the unit to be interrupted

You can access more information on how to resolve intermittent beeping or chirping.

Cleaning your alarms

Clean your alarms at least once a month to ensure smoke or CO can reach the alarm's sensing chamber.

Instructions: Gently vacuum the outside of the alarm using your household vacuum’s soft brush attachment. A can of clean compressed air (sold at office supply stores) may also be used.

Note:

• Excess moisture can damage the unit.
• Never use water, cleaners, solvents, or air compressor machines to clean your alarm.

For more information on fire safety in your home, please go to the US Fire Administration website.

Maintaining healthy indoor humidity levels—ideally between 30% and 50%—is essential for both your well-being and the longevity of your home. Low humidity can lead to dry skin, irritated sinuses, and cracked wood floors or trim, while high humidity encourages the growth of mold, dust mites, and even structural issues such as wood rot or warped framing. Maintaining humidity levels helps ensure better indoor air quality, greater year-round comfort, and lasting protection for your home’s finishes and foundational elements.

For more information, please refer to this article.

To keep tabs on humidity levels throughout your home, try using a few affordable digital hygrometers placed in different rooms. Since moisture levels can vary from space to space—especially in areas like basements, which tend to be more humid due to ground moisture—it’s helpful to monitor multiple zones. This gives you a more accurate picture of your home's overall humidity and helps you spot any problem areas.

A sump pump protects your basement from water intrusion, so regular checks are important. Test it annually—ideally before spring rains—by slowly pouring water into the pit. The pump should turn on, remove the water, and shut off. If it doesn’t, it may be clogged or failing, and a licensed plumber should inspect it. Unplug the unit before maintenance. Remove the lid (if it has one) and clear debris from the basin and intake. Check the float switch, inlet screen, and look for corrosion. Many manufacturers recommend replacing the float every couple of years. Consider a battery backup to keep the pump running during outages, and test it by unplugging the main unit. Outside, ensure the discharge line carries water at least 20 feet from the house and remains free of blockages. Signs your pump may need repair or replacement include age (5–10 years depending on use), unusual odors, rust, strange noises, or water in the basement. Addressing issues early prevents bigger problems later.

A wood deck endures sun, rain, and seasonal swings, so steady upkeep goes a long way in preserving its look and safety. Each year, walk the deck and check for loose boards, raised fasteners, soft spots, and areas where railings might need reinforcement. Clean the surface with a deck-safe cleaner to remove dirt and mildew. Depending on exposure, re-seal or stain every two to four years to protect the wood and maintain its finish. Keep plants and shrubs trimmed back and ensure gutters above the deck stay clear—less trapped moisture means a longer-lasting structure.

Proper maintenance involves more than just emptying the lint screen, so it's important to know how to clean a dryer, including the vent, drum, and exterior.

Follow these steps to clean your clothes dryer inside and out and keep laundry day on track.

Do not put salt down on concrete for the first winter. Use “driveway safe” salt beyond the first year.

• Clear gutters and downspouts after winter storms.
• Ensure that the grading still slopes away from the home.
• Repair or replace torn window screens.
• Test the sump pump before heavy spring rains.
• Schedule AC service before temperatures rise.
• Check exterior caulking and sealants around windows, doors, and trim.
• Inspect siding for cracks, warping, or areas needing repair after winter weather.
• Look for driveway and walkway cracking or pitting that worsened over the winter.
• Examine deck structure (ledger board, posts, railings, hardware) as the weather warms.
• Check interior drywall for new cracks or nail pops that appeared during winter shifts.
• Inspect window operation and weatherstripping as you begin opening windows again.
• Look for water stains on ceilings or walls that may have shown up during winter storms.

• Keep vegetation trimmed back—especially around AC units.
• Check decks and outdoor structures for wear from sun exposure.
• Look for gaps in exterior caulking and touch up where needed.
• Keep an eye out for moisture or pests in lower levels or crawl spaces.
• Evaluate exterior paint or stain for peeling or damage.
• Inspect wood decks for loose fasteners, soft spots, or rail movement.
• Check tile or grout in bathrooms and kitchens for cracking or deterioration.
• Assess cabinet hardware (hinges, drawer slides) that may loosen with frequent use.
• Confirm interior doors are operating smoothly—humidity can reveal alignment issues.
• Look for early signs of flooring issues (gaps, cupping, soft areas) brought on by moisture.

• Clean gutters once leaves are down for the season.
• Shut off and drain outdoor faucets.
• Replace furnace filters and schedule a heating check.
• Inspect door and window weatherstripping for gaps.
• Review smoke and CO detectors as colder weather sets in.
• Inspect roof shingles and flashing before winter snow or freeze-thaw cycles.
• Review exterior door thresholds and frames for rot or swelling.
• Recheck siding condition and touch up small repairs before harsh weather.
• Examine foundation walls for cracks while landscaping is still visible.
• Refresh caulking around tubs, showers, and backsplashes to prep for dry winter air.
• Do a thorough interior check for new water stains after summer rainfall.

• Keep snow and ice clear from exterior vents and around the sump discharge line.
• Manage indoor humidity to avoid condensation and protect wood finishes.
• Test GFCI outlets in kitchens, baths, and exterior areas.
• Watch for ice buildup on the roof—an early sign of poor ventilation or heat loss.
• Listen for unusual furnace behavior during extreme cold snaps.
• Monitor ice buildup on the roof that may indicate ventilation or insulation issues.
• Watch for interior doors sticking as humidity drops—alignment problems often appear now.
• Keep an eye on windows for condensation or drafts that expose weatherstripping failures.
• Look for flooring movement or gaps that show up as indoor temperatures fluctuate.
• Inspect interior ceilings and walls for signs of slow plumbing leaks revealed by dry winter air.
• Check for settlement in exterior steps, porches, or decks as frost heave shifts the ground.